“1921: …after taking a summer job picking string beans for a dollar per twelve hour day, future President Richard Nixon acquired a life-long revulsion for the vegetable.”
A Curious History of Food and Drink, Ian Crofton
What is the difference between green beans and runner beans? The answer is simple – they’re two different plants. But if you ask the difference between green beans, bobby beans, french beans, haricot verts, Kenyan beans… not to mention purple and yellow green beans….. it all becomes a bit more complicated.
Runner beans (phaseolus coccineus) and green beans (phaseolus vulgaris) are completely different plants.
Runner beans are cheaper – the plants are more productive – but the rough, flat, green pods need to be destrung and then cut into smaller pieces. If you are short of time they are not worth bothering with.
They’re in season from July to early October.
Different types of green beans
Confusion arises because originally green beans also had to be destrung and they were also known as string beans. The string has now been bred out of green beans – a boon for the busy.
Green beans belong to the legume family – they are the unripe bean pods. Green beans, unlike other legumes, have less protein and a lot more water…. The whole pod can be eaten as well as the seeds – the unripe fruit. This pod can be wide and flat, fleshy and round, or long slim and round. There are two main types: bush, which grow into little bushes; and pole which climb and curl around trellises and other supports.
Further confusion arises from the fact that ‘green beans’ covers a lot of different types of bean, one of which is the ‘harricot vert’ – the French bean whose name translated back into English means litarally ‘green bean’.
French beans, or ‘haricots verts’
These are thin, short and tender – they grow in the UK but they tend to do best in warmer climates.
Thinking of growing beans? My gardening friends tell me that the French bean ‘cobra’ is particularly tender, and lacks strings. Easy to grow (it’s a climbing…), it keeps producing from July to first frosts in October. ‘Amethyst’ on the other hand has proved in tests to have the biggest and longest crop, a strong flavour, and pretty flowers.
These are simply French beans which are grown in Kenya – they are available all year round and tend to be the thinnest and most tender of all the beans.
English Bobby beans (or snap bean)
These are thicker than the Kenyan and the French bean. Cook them al dente – they take a little longer than their French counterparts, about six or seven minutes. Rose Prince thinks Bobby beans are better mixed in with other ingredients – for example in a salad with courgette ribbons, feta, mint, dill, chives and cracked pepper (go easy on the salt because of the feta). Or simply add them to Goodie-goodie Courgette Salad. You can stew them for ten minutes or longer in tomatoes, a little sugar, oil and garlic.
Bobby beans are good both hot and cold.
Coloured green beans
Yet further confusion arises from the fact that you can get green beans which are, in fact, not green, but yellow or purple.
Yellow green beans
Yellow Wax beans are a pale blue colour with light, translucent yellow flesh. They have a slightly grassy, nutty taste. The nutty taste pairs well with brown butter. They go well dressed simply with oil and balsamic vinegar. Looks are everything with Yellow Wax and they are shown off to good effect when thrown over salads (especially a salad Niçoise). They also go well with lobster and langoustines.
If you are thinking of growing them, ‘Cornetti Meraviglia di Venezia’ is a good type – grows quickly and completely without string.
Purple green beans
Purple beans also look amazing – although they turn green when cooked. The colour results from the same pigments which give red cabbage and purple cauliflower their colour. Inside these beans are green, so to get a most impressive, tow-tone effect slice young, tender purple beans down vertically and use almost raw – alternatively you could steam very briefly or plunge for seconds into boiling water and then refresh in ice water. You can also throw them into stir fries right at the last minute. One rather nice idea is to make a salad of lightly cooked green green beans and raw young purple ones, dress with olive oil, seasoning, and balsamic vinegar, and scatter over a mix of green and purple basil.
Royalty Purple and Trionfo Violetto are popular varieties.
All types of green beans freeze well.
In Europe the season for fresh green beans is late summer – August.
Recipe for how to cook French beans
Add to a saucepan of lightly salted water already at a rolling boil for a maximum of eight minutes or less depending on thickness (more for runner beans or Bobby beans).
Cook them uncovered – this helps to retain the bright green colour.
Ideas for what to do with green beans (allow 120g/4 oz beans per person)
- Elizabeth David, and the Irish chef Rory O’Connell (who teaches at Ballymaloe) serve their beans just plain with butter or olive oil, and freshly ground pepper. Top and tail good-looking beans and cut them into 2”/5 cm lengths. Boil them in very salty water for about five minutes – al dente – and serve anointed with the butter or oil and the pepper.
- They are a key ingredient in a classic salad Niçoise
- Boil and serve with garlic and almonds (try marcona almonds)
- Add to a salad of beef tomatoes and dill. Add softly braised onions and garlic (black garlic goes especially well). Dress with olive oil, lemon.
- Hamburg manful green beans – serve with bacon
- The Roman gourmet, Apicius, suggests either serving them with mustard, honey, pine kernels, rue (a kind of bitter herb), cumin and vinegar
- or alternatively he suggests adding to a salad of chick peas, fish roe (or bottarga), eggs, fennel, pepper and balsamic vinegar
- Pep them up a bit with spring onions, ginger and Sichuan pepper
- Serve them with a little coconut for a slightly Indian flavour
- In her Flavour Thesaurus, Niki Segnit explains that walnut and basil pair well together – especially with green beans. Cook the beans as usual and anoint with walnut oil, torn basil, and some dry-fried chopped walnuts
- mix cooked beans with a little grainy mustard and some balsamic vinegar
This post is dedicated to Jackie Fiducia