“As for puddings, they’re one of those rare culinary arts, along with roasting and stewing, at which the British excel. You want suet pastry to be rich but not too dry, soft but strong enough to hold in its blessed contents”
Tom Parker Bowles Let’s Eat Meat
Anyone who is English has heard of suet… but other nationalities don’t use it at all… and I’m afraid if you are not based in the UK you will not be able to find it.
However, although a familiar term, I have never really known what, exactly, suet was until I couldn’t find dumplings at my supermarket and started investigating how to make them from scratch.
What is suet?
Suet (often beef) is made from the fat around the kidneys and other organs of animals (mostly beef and mutton). The fat is removed from the meat, clarified, chopped, water is added, and it’s then boiled. Any impurities pass into the water. On cooling the water and fat separate, and the remaining fat is suet. There are vegetarian forms of suet (made from refined vegetable oil), and Aunt Bessie’s (the producers of the ready made dumplings) uses one of these… and the Aunt Bessie’s dumplings are very good.
What is lard?
Lard, on the other hand, is pig fat either treated to eliminate the impurities or untreated in its natural state. Its smoke point is reached at 188ºC as opposed to 200°C for suet, but aside from that they are very similar and can be used interchangeably. Lard is used for making mince pies and Christmas pudding. It’s also often substituted for butter in pastry making as it produces flakier pastry, on the other hand it doesn’t have the wonderful rich taste.
Main supplier of suet
Atora, a company improbably founded in Manchester by a Frenchman, is the main supplier of shredded suet, both animal and vegetarian.
What can you use suet for?
Suet can be used to make savoury recipes such as dumplings, steak (or lamb, or cauliflower) and kidney pudding, beef suet pudding; and also sweet suet puddings, such as spotted dick (made with raisins, hence the ‘spotted’), treacle pudding, pond pudding (cooked with a whole lemon at its heart – follow this link for Mary Berry’s recipe) and jam roly-poly (also rather gorily known as dead man’s arm) and also rather goreily adopted as a child-murder technique in the famous Beatrix Potter story, The tale of Samuel Whiskers or the roly-poly pudding.
The best recipe for roly poly pudding (hope you’re not on a diet) is Nigella Lawson’s.
Oh for a roly poly, mother used to make
Roly poly treacle duff
Roly poly that’s the stuff
Oh, just to think about it
Makes my tummy ache
Oh cor lummy, I want my mummy
The puddings she used to make
Old music hall song